Just notes today. I started from Parker at 6 am, it was all good at first, then it got windy and it finally turned out to me a really long day, with some frustration breaks and naps in the heat. I arrived at Twin Palms at 6 pm. Continue reading “Day 74. Longer than expected”
So I did end up asking Mona to take me all the way past Parker and “the strip” last night. She drove me around a bit and we were looking at some of the unique Saguaro cactus that grow in this area.
I wake up at first light and pack my Kayak. The birdsong is incredible and when I look up from my packing, a Coyote comes out of the brush behind where my tent had been and sniffs around curiously. He looks up at me and it seems I don’t bother him much. Then he elegantly disappears again, making me feel as if he had just been an apparition. But I see his tracks all over the ground and have left a big smile on my face that I take downriver with me. The Topock Gorge that I now paddle through is beautiful. I laugh out loud at the beavers playing and splashing right next to my boat at one time. I take my time and make the most of this last beautiful stretch before hitting the resorts of Lake Havasu with all their motorized traffic. I take a long lunch break, do yoga in the shade of a pretty rock formation and take a nap.
I wake up at 4:30 and start paddling at 6. The wind has turned and I get a taste of the rare north wind, that accelerates me along wildly blinking Casinos on the Nevada side of the river (town of Laughlin) and all sorts of Trump flagged riverside mansions.
The wind today is supposed to be up to 35 miles per hour and from the south, so straight into my face. In light of this it’s an easy decision to take a day off the river.
It has been great to have the company of my friend Abbey, the Grand Canyon firefighter whom I met hitchhiking in Utah. She has come down to paddle a section of the Black Canyon with me and we had a blast. We floated and chatted, we hiked and climbed, we cooked and drank wine, we jumped naked from cliffs, we collected more trash, took naps in the sand and scrambled down a sketchy rock a little drink in the dark. Most memorably we laughed and cheered as we were paddling against the fierce winds, with our long hair getting all tangled. What a pleasure to have other badass females like her in my life. Thank you Abbey!
It is great to take a real shower and sleep in a real bed. And there is laundromat to finally wash my clothes in something other than the silty water of the Colorado River. And then there is Izzy, and she is the best part of all this. I had known I would like her when we first met at Pearce Ferry. She is a shining advocate of this river and although she sometimes struggles with the seeming hopelessness of it all, she is putting in a lot of effort to preserving the Black Canyon. It is my upcoming section and probably the last little bit of wilderness the Colorado River has left on my journey downstream.
I am not really in the mood for writing today… I need time to process the Grand Canyon and don’t want to stare at a screen, typing, while I do. Instead I will enjoy the easy paddling (as long as there’s no wind) in the pastel solitude of this lake. The occasional motorboat doesn’t bother me much. I will just keep on paddling, and than,s to the sea Kayak I have gotten from Izzy at Desert Adventures I should reach the Boulder City Marina in two days (or with wind in three). I will continue writing when I get there (see below pics) and fill this space with pictures of my journey instead. Continue reading “Day 58 to Day 61. Paddling Lake Mead”
Day 41 – Flagstaff
Preparation and loading at Oars boathouse in Flagstaff.
I don’t know which day, nor what time it is. Or I do, but by a different clock. My calendar runs in river time now. It has been quite a while since I last checked my watch for any of the sterile numbers that scale most peoples lives. These measures of ticking clocks, buzzing sensors and blinking lights don’t matter here.