Day 31. Grand-Staircase Escalante National Monument

On my way out to the headwaters of the Esclante River. Yes, there is tourism out here, but it’s developing in a mild way. There are no Fast Food Joints or Best Western Hotels anywhere. It is just too remote, fortunately. So the region remains to be one of the last where one can truly wander in wilderness. “Desert Varnish” will never seize to amaze me, and I stand in awe, feeling how I am finally falling in love with the browns. Because it is not just one color, it is an incredible array and a richness of tones with different characters, showing thousands of years of the earths history. The dark vertical stripes come from the activity of living organisms, microbes oxidizing iron and manganese in humid conditions, while the orange is caused by arid and dusty conditions. Learning to read these books on the walls, spending hours out there with no rush, I am finally beginning to listen and see in a more profound way. Calf Creek Falls

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